If you’ve been thinking about investing in a rangefinder to help your golf game, you might feel overwhelmed by all of the different models, each promising to be any golfer’s new best friend. Choosing the one that’s right for you doesn’t have to make you want to smash your clubs in frustration. Learning about the different types and how they work can make it much easier to find the right model to fit your needs.
The first, and original, type of rangefinder (besides a good caddy, of course) is the GPS variety. As you might guess from the name, GPS rangefinders use real-time satellite triangulation combined with preloaded course info to determine where you are right now relative to the next hole. Some models are even loaded with information about hazards, too. Older or lower-quality models can be ineffective in areas surrounded by too many trees or tall buildings, since such obstruction can get in the way of satellite signals. Newer, higher-quality models employ more advanced technology that virtually eliminates this problem. Since distances are calculated based on preloaded course info, GPS models do need to be updated to include new courses or courses that have undergone extensive renovation. Many models actually require a monthly or annual subscription fee to guarantee up-to-date information. There are plenty of quality GPS models available that do not require this recurring expense. When shopping for a GPS rangefinder, make sure you understand whether or not a subscription is required. One of the biggest advantages of GPS rangefinders is that they are available as wristwatches. A quick flick of your wrist, and you’ll get the information you need. Another plus for many golfers is that GPS models tend to be quite a bit cheaper than their laser counterpart. The biggest drawback to GPS models is that they tend to be less accurate than laser rangefinders.
The other type of golf rangefinder uses lasers to determine your distance from the next hole or hazard based on real-time conditions. Since a laser rangefinder “sees” the environment in real time, there’s no need to worry about whether your favorite course is preloaded. Some laser rangefinders are also able to accurately calculate slope, whereas the best GPS models can only give you a general idea of slope. Since laser rangefinders have to “see” the area to make calculations, they’re only effective when your next hazard or hole is clearly visible. In other words, GPS determines your physical location and compares that to what it knows about your course to calculate distance. Lasers don’t know anything about the course or your latitude and longitude; they only tell you how far you are from whatever you aim at. This can be a problem for some golfers on holes where there is not a clear line of sight between them and the flag. Laser rangefinders definitely offer more accuracy than GPS versions, which is why many choose them. What you gain in accuracy, though, you tend to lose in ease of use. GPS models can be worn on the wrist. Laser models have to be carried in a pocket or bag, taken out, aimed, and put away again. As mentioned above, laser rangefinders do generally cost considerably more than comparable-quality GPS units.
Whichever version appeals most to you, make sure that any model you buy is approved for use in any tournaments you plan to enter. While many places do allow basic distance rangefinders to be used, some do not. Few, if any, allow you to use models that calculate slope. If tournament play is part of your plan, be sure you’re not wasting hard-earned money on a model that you’ll have to leave in the car.
In the end, GPS versus laser becomes largely a matter preference for most golfers as each has it pros and cons. Laser models are newer technology, but many players don’t agree that newer means better. The lower price and ease of use of GPS rangefinders makes it unlikely that they’ll fade away anytime soon. If, on the other hand, you’re more interested in superior accuracy and slope calculation, a laser might be a better choice for you.
If you’re interested in learning more about cigars, you might be wondering where to begin. Your best bet is to visit a quality cigar shop and speak with a tobacconist, someone who can guide you through the process of finding your favorites and teach you about the finer points of cigar production and enjoyment. A good tobacconist can save you the time (and expense) of trying every variety around by working with you to determine your personal preferences and by steering you towards or away from untried varieties based on past experiences. If you don’t have a proper cigar shop in your area, or if you just don’t want to sound like a complete newbie when you walk in, there are a few things that every aspiring cigar aficionado should know.
The first thing you’ll want to know is how cigars are sized. Cigars sizes are expressed in length and ring gauge, with a ring gauge of “1” being equal to 1/64th of an inch. So, a cigar that is labeled as a “7.5 x 50” is 7.5 inches long and 50/64ths of an inch in diameter. There are a dozen or so standard cigar sizes with names like corona, double corona, petit corona, churchill, robusto, and torpedo. Different cigar makers have different names for their versions of these sizes. You can think of this in terms of buying shoes: All athletic shoe manufacturers make size 10 running shoes, but they give their models different catchy names. Likewise, many cigar makers produce a 7.5 x 50 double corona, but they’ll all call it something different.
The next thing to understand is which leaves go into your favorite cigars. Most makers use some blend of the 4 parts of a tobacco plant. In order from the top of the plant, which is closest to the sun and therefore the strongest part, to the bottom, which is the mildest section: ligero, viso, seco, volado. A typical construct includes the strongest leaves in the middle surrounded by layers of the milder leaves. The strongest leaves do have the most flavor and burn the slowest, but are also the harshest, making them pretty unpleasant without the milder leaves as buffers.
When it comes to cutting cigars, you’ll need a sharp tool called a guillotine. Since the wrapper on the outside of the cigar is typically all one leaf, makers install a cap of sorts at the end of the cigar to keep this wrapper intact. Make sure that you always cut just the tip off, as cutting beyond the edge of the cap will cause your cigar to unravel.
We’ve all heard that Cuban cigars are the gold standard, right? While it’s true that the Cubans did set the early standard, the fact that their cigars are limited to tobacco leaves indigenous to Cuba means their flavor profiles are not as varied as, say, Dominican or Nicaraguan versions. In other words, don’t be fooled into following the “Cuban or Bust” mentality. Do yourself a favor and try as many as you can, as exposure to different varieties and makers can give you a greater appreciation of the different qualities, textures, tastes, and tones that make a good cigar. Remember, too, that taste is subjective, and finding your own favorites could be tons more rewarding than going with the crowd.